To our most loyal readers, thank you for joining us for another week of the Apulum Roman Villa Project 2026. We are now four weeks into the season, and the ground beneath us continues to yield a great many secrets. This week brought a number of remarkable discoveries. Two bronze coins were recovered from the trenches, alongside quite the rare find: a lapis lazuli bead, the second piece of lapis lazuli ever found at this site.

Much has already been written about the rhythms of daily life on site, so this week we would like to take our readers somewhere else entirely: away from the trenches, and into the city that gave us one of our most memorable days yet. On Sunday, the team set aside its trowels in favour of a day of exploration and travelled to Sighișoara, a small city in Transylvania whose old town is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is perhaps best known as the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, the historical figure who inspired the legend of Dracula. For our team, however, the day carried an additional significance: Sighișoara is the hometown of Andrei, one of our Romanian colleagues, who kindly guided us through the city that he knows so well.

The house in which Vlad resided between 1431 and 1435 still stands in the old town, a distinctive yellow building that draws the eye from a distance. In recent years it has been converted into a fashionable restaurant, which is quite an amusing juxtaposition of centuries-old legend and modern-day dining.

The old town is also home to numerous antique stores, tucked into its winding streets, each filled with fine pottery, jewellery boxes, vintage lamps…amongst other things. One shop in particular, situated down a quiet side street, was distinguished by a striking series of exposed brick archways forming the walls of its interior, a detail that captivated the entire group the moment we stepped inside.

No visit to Sighișoara would be complete without a visit to the Church on the Hill, one of the great churches of Transylvania and the third largest in the region. Situated at an altitude of 429 metres, beside the old Hilltop School, the church presides over the city and is visible from a considerable distance in nearly every direction. It was certainly a hike to get up to the very top! The church itself was covered in beautful pieces of art all over the interior of its walls.

It also holds a distinction unique in Transylvania, as it houses the only crypt of its kind in the region. In the coffin niches, leading Sighișoara citizens were buried there from 1780 to roughly 1815. In the 18th century, the room of the crypt was transformed into a burial chamber with a central aisle which each side bearing coffin niches.

We would be remiss not to mention a particularly memorable encounter: a small puppy named Poofy, belonging to the caretaker of the adjacent cemetery. Though he was entrusted with guarding the grounds, he greeted each and every one of us with unreserved warmth.

It was a bright and pleasant Sunday, and Sighișoara, roughly two hours from Alba Iulia, offered a welcome change of scenery: a city rich in colour, history, and life. The team will now embark on its last week at the site and we are all looking ahead to what next week’s excavation might bring. Until then, thank you for reading, and we look forward to sharing more with you soon.

Dearest gentle reader,

Welcome to my entry. I shall endeavor to enter this blog much like a trowel enters the rich earth of Transylvania. That is, with some resistance… But we’ll get it done, because at the end of the day we’ve gotta move that dirt and put it in the bag (or, blog), no matter how hard it is. So much like you, I will settle in, grab some palinka, curl up with a friendly street kitty, and regale you with our adventures above and below the other side of the world.

Life starts early in Romania. Every morning I wake up at 5:30am, the goats already bleating, dogs already barking, and the local brood of street cats already howling for food the minute anyone inside the accommodation begins to stir. Mornings are cool and pleasant, the sun just beginning to rise as we gather for our days on site. We pile on the bus and arrive under the highway overpass in style to start work at 7:00am, dodging menacing sheep dogs who love to chase the bus as it retreats up the bumpy dirt road.

Every day we have to climb a steep hill to reach the site, and on the way there’s a beautiful field of sunflowers. Once you reach the top you’re surrounded by rolling hills and pastures, the Carpathian Mountains rising gently in the distance. Our site is located in a farmer’s field, this year sown with dense alfalfa. The purple flowers are pretty. The landscape is deep and dramatic, yet comfortingly pastoral. The photos, and my description, don’t do it justice.

I’m assigned to work in trench B-West. It’s an especially interesting site because it’s a bit of a mystery: We don’t know what its primary function was during the Roman period of occupation, and one of our key research goals is to figure this out. We know from our geophysical imaging that we’re excavating outside and inside two walls that are part of a larger structure. Our contexts are numerous and varied, the archaeology revealing multiple, messy phases of habitation, expansion, destruction and robbing spanning centuries. It makes for very complicated work, and half the fun is finding new puzzling contexts and trying to fit them into the site’s busy chronology. Notable finds include a massive carbonized crossbeam in signature Roman style, bronze, bone, and iron objects, and many kinds of glass. Every day we unearth new finds that revise our picture of the ancient world and challenge our previous assumptions about the site. It’s both humbling and fulfilling, and I genuinely think we stand a good chance of answering some of our big questions by the season’s end.

The days are typically hot, and we usually end work mid-afternoon to escape the worst of the heat. Once we’re back at our accommodations, we generally have the evening free to sightsee in Alba Iulia’s historic citadel, socialize with classmates over a cold beer on a shady patio, or pursue other aspects of our field work such as site journals, Harris matrices, or blogs like this one right here. It’s a great way to unwind after a hard day digging holes under the Transylvanian sun (at least the beer part is). We also go on sightseeing adventures every Sunday!

If you’re looking for a rewarding , hands-on field experience with a good balance of fun and academics, this is a great choice. And on that note, it’s about time I got myself ready to do it all over again. Thank you and goodnight!

ARVP is the third site I’ve had the chance to dig at since I’ve begun my career in archaeology, and so far I’ve been enjoying it immensely. Digging here in Romania has been very different from what I’ve experienced in Greece and Italy, and has offered me so many opportunities to grow my skills and learn new ones, even this early on. Part of the credit for all that has to go to the people running the site at all levels and the ones working alongside me in the trench, but a part of it also comes from the interesting contexts I’ve been getting to work in.

I work in trench B-East, which is the furthest one away from the base camp. Pretty immediately after the clearing of the topsoil and an interface layer, we started uncovering some fun stuff. We have some walls, which I’ve been told were expected based on geoimaging that was done before digging started, and also a decent layer of roof tiles – and this one was not expected at all. Uncovering all of it has been an exercise in patience and strength, because the clay soil we’re digging in becomes hard as stone once it’s out in the sun long enough and we have to spend a long time down on the ground picking the dirt out from between individual stones, but it’s worth it. Unlike other parts of the site, which have been heavily disturbed at various points throughout history and thus have lost most of their walls, our walls are quite intact.

I’ve been introduced to a lot of new tools and techniques on this dig. Some of these tools are for the physical tasks of uncovering things. I’ve been introduced to a scraper that is a nice in between between a shovel and a trowel, which have been the two extremes I’m used to working with. Having a good array of tools is a God-send – archaeology is pretty tough on the body, so anything that mitigates that is well appreciated. Other tools are more technical, such as our camera for photogrammetry and our rover, which we use to take points. Getting the rover in the right position to take the points is tedious (especially when it’s windy), though kinda fun once you get the hang of it. On my previous digs, touching the technical equipment was a no-go for undergrads and even some of the grads. Here everyone is encouraged to take part and develop their skills, which I think works in everyone’s favour. I think that overall ARVP is a great site to be learning on, and I’m a little jealous of all my colleagues who have this as their first dig – but I’m sure my friends who haven’t been here will be jealous of me later on, so I’ll take that victory.

The mornings bright and full of sun, the afternoons crowded out by thunder, and the evenings a break from the showers. This has encapsulated our first week together in Alba Iulia. We have all been adjusting to the time, work, and routine together; rather well all things said! My week both on site and off has been brimming from both learning about archaeology, and everyone around me. The team this year brings much to the table, some previous experience, lots of eagerness, and definitely kindness.

For the first time Alba Iulia welcomed the McCarty kids, the children of one of our directors. Watching them interact with the site, and how they were being taught to participate shaped much of how I was approaching the trench and tool work. While sitting alongside my assistant trench supervisor, I watched her demonstrate first how to properly loosen the fill in material (soil poured into the tarped trenches to protect the site when it is not active) and then pull it out. After this the two kids took to it like fish in water, then took it upon themselves to  be in charge of the bucket brigade, making sure everyone had an empty one and getting help when they could not lift what was in front of them.

When reflecting on my time in the process of writing this blog post, I could not help but feel like the mentality of these kids reflected the workflow of everyone at Area A. Four of us are brand new to archaeology out of the adults, and three who are not. Despite that, there was no need for micromanagement, or excessive amounts of explanations. When skills and techniques were being taught it was done with patience and simple correction. The most challenging moment for me was the beginning of day three, and learning how to ‘clean’ a context by removing soil. The purpose of scraping a layer of dirt off the context (a part of a trench that is a specified layer of the stratigraphy that will be dug through or is what is being looked for) is to both properly reveal what is happening within it, and to prepare it for documentation. To clean a context you are on your knees, using a scraper and taking more dirt off then you could ever anticipate, till the ground is smooth and has no random pieces or piles of dirt lying about. I was not good at this to begin with, and it took me an hour to find a rhythm. Throughout it though, my thoughts stayed with the kids who had come to site eager to learn and help; and decided it was their attitude I wanted to make sure I kept, regardless of the difficulties I may run into on my days at site.

As a summer storm settles over Alba Iulia, I find myself with a quiet moment to reflect upon the journey that has been the 2025 ARVP campaign. As a fledgling archaeologist, I made my best effort to enter into this experience with no expectations and a beginner’s mind. Having spent only a little time in the field in British Columbia, yet a good deal of time in the lab, the concept of an archaeological excavation was familiar to me, but I was also aware that archaeology in Europe is done quite differently than back home and that every site is run in its own unique way. 

I planned to learn as much as possible, and learn I did! The amount of both practical and theoretical knowledge coming our way during the work day was more than occasionally overwhelming, especially while doing very physically demanding work in 35 degree weather. Our trench supervisors, alongside our dig directors Dr. McCarty and Dr. Egri, very kindly and patiently took their time to teach us the hands-on skills necessary to excavate: spading, scraping, cleaning and brushing, amongst others. They explained to us how they arrived at their interpretations of the various contexts, and how to form our own interpretations by analyzing the stratigraphy of the site, identifying “cuts” versus “fills”, and how to properly document the processes at work. 

Most importantly, the atmosphere on site and back at the hotel every day was one of comradery built on the backs of long, challenging days together, and successes achieved as a team. I would like to extend a huge thank you to the Romanian team here who worked the hardest, laughed the loudest, and showed us all a good time in our free hours. We ate well together, went to some quintessentially Romanian festivals, and explored ancient sites dotted around the countryside. Songs and jokes were shared, and some of us even picked up a little Romanian!

Having experienced all of the above, can I consider myself an archaeologist yet? No official paper hangs on my wall, yet I do believe that the 2025 ARVP campaign has put another notch in my belt towards earning my “real archaeologist” t-shirt. With new skills, new friends, and a new appreciation for archaeology outside of the classroom, I can head back to Canada with a full brain and a budding excitement for the next campaign.

In the final week of digging in Trench AW, we found many new contexts, most memorably roof tiles and a lot of pits. We spent a lot of time on the roof tiles so we could uncover each one without damaging it. It kind of felt like being a dentist, because we were scraping the dirt from between the tiles and using brushes to clean the tops of the tiles. After we had documented all of the tiles, we removed them by scraping around the edges and then popping them out of the ground, which was really satisfying and also felt strangely dental…

We also found a lot of pits. After digging up one pit, which was beneath a circle of stones, we realized it was dug inside of a bigger pit, so we excavated that one as well. Not far from this pit-ception, we found at least two more pits. There were so many pits that we started calling it the “P-word”!

Meanwhile when we were finding all this stuff, it was super hot, so we were taking turns in the shade. Every time I drank from my water bottle, it was like flavourless tea. Still, it was worth it, because digging and finding stuff was very satisfying!

Romania welcomes her scorching summer, and we are approaching the end of our excavation. On our final excursion, also the last day of the ARVP 2025, we wrapped up this journey in the hometown of the vampire Dracula, Sighișoara.

Sighișoara is an ancient town in central Romania, rich in history and well-preserved as a medieval fortified settlement. Its iconic landmarks include castles, clock towers, and churches dating back to the medieval period. Even before reaching the town itself, we could see a black clock tower rising on a distant hillside, its yellow tiles glinting in the sun, strikingly distinct among the sea of red rooftops. 

This tower was our main destination today. Inside, it houses a museum showcasing vivid glimpses of medieval life: aged patterned bricks, surgical tools, delicately carved wooden gingerbread forms, and so on. The floorboards creaked beneath our feet, echoing like the hum of the TARDIS from Doctor Who, as though time was folding back. With each exhibit and each step up the stairs, the dust of history was lifted, and we were pulled centuries into the past to witness Sighișoara’s medieval world.

Speaking of steps, Sighișoara has no shortage of them. But every step is well worth the effort. From the new town at the foot of the hill, a winding staircase leads up to the old town. The colorful houses and ancient trees weave into each other, and with every turn, the scenery shifts. The staircase inside the clock tower is narrow and steep, hardly friendly to the knees. But once we reached the top, the entire quaint town lay stretched before us. The hills beyond show the vibrant green of midsummer. Climbing further, we finally reached the hilltop and found an old church. The church was quiet and cool. Stepping in from the heat, our hearts seemed to calm along with the air. Faded reliefs still lingered on the walls, adding a touch of color to our visit.

For the second week’s excursion, the ARVP team traveled north to Turda. Home to one of the most spectacular salt mines in Europe, this trip had everyone especially excited! Upon arrival, we descended 120 meters into the Rudolf Mine. This area of the mine was full of fun activities — we played ping pong, mini golf, and pool, all while surrounded by the stunning natural features of the mine. The rippling patterns of the salt stratigraphy along the walls looked like a work of art. There were also kiosks offering all things salt: lamps, bath salts, and other unique souvenirs.

After exploring the Rudolf area, we ventured even deeper into the Terezia Mine. Mining here began in 1660 and ended in 1880, and today, it holds a dark, shallow lake — giving some of us the chance to enjoy a nice boat ride. Our rowing skills were a bit rusty, so a few minor collisions with other boats (and the occasional stalagmite shower) were inevitable!

By the end of the trip, we were happy to relax on benches, take in the atmosphere, and watch our teammates shoot a few more rounds of pool. That is, until we realized we had stayed a bit too long to wait for the elevator. So, with no time to lose, we sprinted up all 25 flights of stairs to reach the exit in time.

Back on the bus, we rested well, thrilled by the day’s adventures and completely exhausted from the climb!

Sunday excursions are always a captivating escape from our daily archaeological work routine. This past Sunday was no exception; we dived into the local history by visiting the Roman Fortress of Potaissa, the Turda History Museum (Muzeul De Istorie Turda), and the Turda salt mine (Salina Turda), which are clustered in the nearby city of Turda.

The one-and-a-half-hour drive to our first stop, the Roman Fortress, certainly did not seem that long of a journey for us, especially because our sore muscles induced us to nap deeply. We were then welcomed by an enthusiastic guide who shared the historical context and structure of the castra. Under the reign of Marcus Aurelius, it was the biggest castra in operation from around 170 AD to 270 AD in Dacia, fortifying the borders of Roman Dacia as well as the Roman Empire. As we walked along the ruins and walls, we were astonished by the comprehensive structure of the castra: four gates connected by major roads to the headquarters, the Principia, with towers built at the fort’s corners. Other constructions, such as barracks and storage space, were also found in the complex. Apart from the military constructions, there was also a space for thermal baths and exercises.

Our second destination at the Turda History Museum was the perfect complement to the Fortress since numerous archaeological finds excavated from the Turda were displayed at the museum. Artifacts are housed in a 19th-century building, which is now repurposed as a museum. As the sun’s rays gently streamed through the windows and lightened the display rooms, we delightfully browsed through ceramics, weaponry, personal ornaments, and tablet inscriptions. The local history of Turda was encapsulated in the historic building, vividly presenting life in the city throughout the ages.

Our third and final stop at the Turda salt mine beautifully concluded this week’s excursion. As soon as we entered the salt mine, the cool air soothed our weary minds. The salt mine is both a hotspot for locals and a tourist attraction. Descending into the underground chamber of salt walls, we found ourselves surrounded by attractions such as ping pong, mini-golf, and a Ferris wheel, which was unfortunately closed; nonetheless, we were in awe of the faintly interwoven carvings on the salt walls, with white tube lights hovering overhead. As we stumbled our way down the steep stairs to the lowest level, we excitedly rowed on the underground lake while admiring the magnificent patterns carved on the salt walls. What better place captures the mixture of natural beauty and artificial constructs?

This past week at the Apulum Roman Villa Project, we finally broke through the topsoil in Trench A East and got to get down to the ancient contexts. The shift happened quite suddenly and we somehow went from one context to nine being open. However, this also led us to pits. Never. Ending. Pits. In fact, there were even pits within pits and if you think about it, we are actively digging a pit (a.k.a. our trench) into a pit, into another pit. As we dig deeper into the earth we may even realize there are more pits within pits…within pits. Luckily the pits did not ruin our mood! The delirium kicked in and we all had a blast excavating two robber trenches, finding countless nails, and loads of teeth!

The excavation wasn’t our only form of entertainment during this week. One of the assistant trench supervisors had to sprint after our truck that held all of our tools as it was being driven off the hill with the side doors wide open. This supervisor dropped EVERYTHING they were doing and ran full speed, arms flailing in the air as the van drove off into the rolling alfalfa fields, tools hanging for dear life in the open vehicle. Despite their efforts, it wasn’t the supervisor’s run that caught the driver’s attention but a simple phone call from a worried student!

With the tools back in the van there wasn’t much running until a wind storm hit our site a few days later. Bags filled with pottery, bone, and archaeological elements were blown away. Luckily the bags were closed, well, most of them…

The storm completely shut the site down and we were able to have the rest of the day off and have the chance to recover from a bad hair day. Without a doubt, we will have many more bad hair days but I embrace them all and can’t wait for the week to come!